Bennigan's


QUICKLY // Guinness Stout glaze: as one dining companion describes, "it tastes like alcoholic hoisin sauce."

150 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago
312.427.0570


Bennigan's: Guinness Bacon Cheeseburger

Last July, in rather dramatic fashion, Bennigan's was shuttered across Chicago en masse. Managers received late-night phone calls to immediately lock up their restaurants, and employees arrived the next day to discover they had joined the ranks of the unemployed. We thought that was the end of that. 

But in recent weeks, media outlets around town have received press releases about the Bennigan's on Michigan Avenue, the only one left standing in Chicago, rising from the ashes. With such high foot traffic (right across from the Art Institute) and nice weather forthcoming, this was a good time to revisit this Irish-themed family restaurant, and its Guinness Glazed Bacon Cheeseburger. 

Could glaze come in Guinness Stout form? Apparently so, as it has the color and viscosity as the refuse barrel at Jiffy Lube. As one dining companion noted, "it tasted like alcoholic hoisin sauce." The syrupy sweet glaze masked a rubbery beef patty that tasted as if it came in bulk from the Costco freezer. 

I did enjoy the textural contrast -- crispy, pliable, fatty lengths of bacon that worked with the Guinness glaze, an eggy sesame seed bun toasted on the rims and golden straw onions. It's also enormous: one burger easily fills up two guests. But the beef, boy, you can masquerade with epoxy, but discerning diners can taste through it. 

I still like the Monte Cristo better. 
 
 

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