There is nothing wrong with the idea of "no frills." I, seeker of meat-filled wonder, need not the next incarnation of sliced bread to be enlightened.

Thereby I can heartily recommend the Monster Burger with Cheese at Phil's Kastle Hamburgers, on the southern edge of Chicago a stone's throw from Indiana. Honestly, you wouldn't come here unless you lived in the neighborhood. But maybe you should.

This is as old-school of a diner as old schools goes -- red checkerboard floors, faded plastic menu boards, a short-order cook named Bill sporting an apron and paper hat who says the secret of his burgers is "tender love and care." Castle spelled with a "K," a relic of restaurants that used to misspell common words in their title, just for the sheer novelty.

I suspect "Monster" is a clever gimmick for this half-century-old South Side institution (hasn't always been in this same location on 95th Street). There is nothing monstrous about the burger. It is a by-the-books rendition: juicy patty pink in the middle, a semi-melted American cheese, bun that's entirely soft except along its circumference, where it is golden and toasty, plus your standard condiments.

It's $2.99. It's cooked to order, served with love. It's tasty. There is nothing to complain about.