Garden Detective

I heard you're supposed to cover a poinsettia plant with a paper bag in October. Is this true and why?
Dera Grosso, Farmingville

Poinsettias are tropical plants that thrive outdoors in the right climate. Unfortunately, that isn't here. On Long Island, they're purchased mostly around the holidays and last for about a month or two.

If you'd like to try keeping them going as houseplants, continue to water them throughout the winter, keeping the soil moist. When the weather warms and nighttime lows are steadily above 60 degrees, you can place them outside, transplanting to a larger pot,

if necessary.

Cut back severely in early spring, and watch for new stem tips. You can keep pruning throughout the summer. Come fall, place the plant out of direct sunlight.

Here's where the paper bag comes in: Poinsettias require 14 hours of complete darkness every day for two or three months in the fall in order to set buds for a second bloom. To accomplish this, some people recommend bagging them in October, but that also requires taking them out of the bag each day so that they can get the recommended 10 hours of sunlight that they also require.

It makes more sense to me to place them in a closet for 14 hours at night and move them out for the remaining 10 hours. Come to think of it, it makes the most sense just to buy new ones every year. But that's me. If you're up for the challenge, have at it - and let me know how it works out.

I am retired and I enjoy gardening. My new project is trying to propagate fig trees. I have some cuttings given to me by a friend, and I would like to try to do something with them. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
Frank Scaturro, Stewart Manor

Fig trees are indigenous to the tropics, and so can be rather difficult to grow successfully here in zone 7. I know my father always tried, but I don't recall his Flushing garden ever yielding an abundant fig harvest. Long Island aficionados go to great lengths to protect their trees from harsh winter temperatures - wrapping and even bending and burying them in the hopes of a sweet, juicy reward come summer. Sometimes, they get lucky.

The Cornell Cooperative Extension of Nassau County offers the following advice on propagation:

Plant your 5- to 10-inch cuttings (severed at the nodes) so that the tips are almost even with the soil. Hormone materials can be added to aid the process, which should be done in the late spring or early summer. By November, the cutting should have developed a good root system.

Fig trees need to be protected over the winter. This is best done just before Thanksgiving. When the tree is young, for the first few years, it's a good idea to prune it heavily to encourage it to grow into a bush instead of a tree. Bush-like trees are easier to wrap and protect over the winter.

If you choose to bury your tree, you must first remove any leaves, fruit or dead wood. Next, bend the tree and secure it by pegging it into position. Cover it with 3 to 4 inches of soil, leaves or compost.

If you decide to wrap, never use any plastic materials for any part of the process. The Cornell Cooperative Extension recommends pulling all branches inward and tying them together with soft but strong rope. Leave it that way until the beginning of December. Be sure the rope and branches are completely dry before wrapping. Wait a few days after rainfall, if necessary.

Wrap the tree completely from top to bottom with burlap, securing the burlap to itself with pins or staples to keep it from falling off. Be careful not to pin or staple the burlap to the tree.

Next, wrap some heavy brown paper around the burlap and tie it into place. Remove some soil from around the base of the tree and surround the bottom half of the tree with cardboard. Tie it into place, too.

You're not done yet, but keep your eye on the prize: Just remember how sweet and juicy those figs will be. And how expensive they are to buy at the specialty market.

Tar paper is next. Surround the tree with it in such a way so that rainwater will roll off of it and away from the tree. "It is extremely important that water does not seep into the cracks," a Cornell fact sheet on the subject warns. "The tar paper must be tied securely."

Once you've completely wrapped your tree, mound soil around its base to keep it warm and cozy. Some people top their new garden ornament with a pail to further protect it from water.

Unwrap your precious ficus carica on a cloudy day in early spring, just after the last frost.

Don't you hate it when you bring home a Christmas tree, and by the time the holiday rolls around there are more needles on the floor than on the branches?

Here are a few steps you can take to protect your tree from the grinch:

Just a reminder before I go. Now that the leaves are on the ground, it's the right time to prune non-flowering deciduous trees. You can do so from now through the winter, when trees are dormant. Not only is it better for the tree, but it's easier because you can better see its structure when its branches are bare. Without leaves, it's easier to spot dead or broken branches that need to be removed. If you leave them on, they might rip off when those winter winds start whipping.

Deciding what and where to prune involves an understanding of basic tree biology, sharp tools, and an artful eye. The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) emphasizes a few simple principles to understand before you prune:

Prune with a purpose, Remove dead or diseased wood, provide clearance, or improve structure Use proper technique- Improper cuts can cause long-term damage.

Make small cuts. Small cuts cause less damage to the tree than large ones.

Make cuts just outside the branch collar. This allows for faster wound healing.

Do not leave stubs.

Only use sharp and clean tools.

"Proper pruning is an important part of tree health maintenance," according to Jim Skiera, Executive Director of the ISA. "Every tree is different. Pruning at the wrong time, pruning incorrectly, or pruning too much may create more problems than not pruning at all." When in doubt it is best to hire a professional arborist to do the pruning for you.

Pruning of large trees can be dangerous and should be done by a professional.

For more tips on how to prune trees or to find a local Certified Arborist, visit the ISA's Trees Are Good website.

I'm going to Seattle for Thanksgiving -- not returning until early December, so I won't be filing any blog entries until I return. Here are some things to do while I'm gone.

When a loved one is ill or has experienced a loss, we send flowers. And when we’ve messed up really badly, we’re told flowers can help smooth things over. Sure, flowers are pretty and smell nice, but do they really have the power to mend broken fences? For years I’ve believed the traditional mindset was the result of some marketing genius, but a recent Harvard study says otherwise.

The results of a recent behavioral research study conducted by Nancy Etcoff, Ph.D., of Massachusetts General Hospital and Harvard Medical School, reveal that people feel more compassionate toward others, have less worry and anxiety, and feel less depressed when fresh-cut flowers are present in the home. Energy and enthusiasm are boosted as well. “Other research has proven that flowers make people happy when they receive them," said Etcoff. "What we didn't know, is that spending a few days with flowers in the home can affect a wide variety of feelings."

So sure, take vitamins to keep your body strong. But be sure to add a daily dose of fresh flowers to keep your spirits up. The following ‘flower recipes’ to brighten up areas of your home come from Flowerpossibilities.com:

Kitchen

Materials

5 to 8 stems red gerbera daisies
Oblong vase, approximately 6-to 8-inches tall x 6-inches wide
Floral clippers and floral food/preservative

Directions

1. Fill the vase with water that has been treated with floral food/preservative.

2. Cut the gerbera daisies approximately 2-inches taller than the height of the vase.

3. Stack the gerberas to one side of the vase, some of the stems will be almost side-ways in the vase.

Living Room

Materials

One 10-inch x 10-inch square basket
Two 4-inch clay pots
3 small jars or juice glasses (approximately 3-inches tall x 2-inches in diameter)
One 4-inch fern or other foliage plant
3 stems purple mums
4 stems green button mums
3 stems red roses
3 stems green hypericum
5 stems orange standard carnations
3 rubber bands (optional)
Floral food/preservative, clippers and knife

Directions

Fill the jars or glasses with water that has been treated with floral food/preservative.

Cut the flowers to approximately 4-inches in length and insert them into the water glasses. If desired, rubber band the bouquets together.

Mix the hypericum with orange standard carnations and the roses with the green button mums. The heads of all flowers should be at the same height.

Place the flowers and plant into the basket. One glass with a bouquet will be inserted into the empty clay pot, which also goes inside the basket.

Bedroom

Materials:

One 8-inch in diameter salad or mixing bowl
One 2-inch round pin frog
Floral clay adhesive
5 red gerbera daisies (or color of your choice)
5 yellow gerbera daisies (or color of your choice)
Floral clippers
Floral food/preservative

Directions

Adhere the floral clay to the bottom rim of the pin frog and press the frog to the bottom center of the bowl.

Add water that has been treated with floral food/preservative.

Cut the gerbera daisies between 8 and 10-inches in length and insert each stem into the pin frog. The center stems should be taller than the outer stems.

It's still autumn, and if you haven't already, there are a few chores that need to be done to winterize your garden. The Horticultural Society of New York, a 106 year-old, non-profit organization, recommends these maintenence jobs be done before winter arrives:

1. Discard All Weeds -- Especially Ones With Set Seeds

Be careful not to scatter seeds around the garden in the process of removal. Make sure to dig or pull weeds out by the roots to prevent more from coming back next spring.

2. Let the Plants Tell You When to Prune

Foliage of perennial plants will flop over at different times throughout the fall, indicating it is time to cut them back. Cut these plants within three inches of the ground. Do not prune trees or shrubs too late into the fall, because it can encourage new growth, which will not be strong enough for the cold weather. Save major pruning jobs for January or February when you can see the true form of a tree or shrub.

3. Guard Your Garden from Unwanted Diseases

Remove any old plant material from the garden to prevent diseases and unwanted insects from spending the winter. Dormant fungal spores and other nasty plant diseases can be found in decaying plant material, making clean-up one of the most important aspects of end-of-the-season gardening.

4. Let It Freeze Before You Mulch

Mulch is a great insulator for in-ground plants during the winter. Plants will begin to go dormant when the ground first freezes, and spreading mulch too early can lead to a rise in soil temperatures that can damage the plant. Wait until the ground is truly frozen before spreading mulch (a depth of 3” is recommended.)

Do you have a planting dilemma? Upload a picture and get community input. Or, if you've created a horticultural masterpiece, show it off. Borrow ideas and share your own via snapshots of your gardens. Show us what worked and what didn't. View submissions and upload your shots in the Virtual Garden Club.

Narcissus "tazetta"
photo courtesy of Cornell Cooperative Extension

I've heard from several readers who seem intimidated by prospect of forcing bulbs -- most commonly Paperwhites -- indoors over the winter. I've never done it personally, but in the interest of experimentation, I'm going to give it a whirl this year.

It seems a simple, straight-forward process, and one with a relatively high success rate.

Paperwhites are in the Narcissus family -- along with Daffodils and Jonquils -- and typically, as their name implies, are white. You can, however, find some yellow varieties as well, such as Bethlehem, Israel, Nazareth and Grand Soleil d'Or, but they're still called Paperwhites. The spring-blooming flowers can be forced (tricked, really) into blossoming over the winter. That sounds like a nice treat when your garden is hiding under a blanket of snow.

I've seen pre-packaged Paperwhite forcing kits retail for $9.99 all the way up to $49. They make nice gifts, to be sure. But you can purchase the bulbs for fifty cents apiece (less if you buy in bulk,) gather up some pebbles and grow them in a pot you have at home. It's up to you.

Here's how it's done:

1. Find a shallow (3 - 4 inches deep) bowl or pot without drainage holes.

2. Place an inch or two of small stones, pebbles or gravel at the bottom of your pot.

3. Set a group of bulbs onto the pebbles, pressing gently to stabilize. Don't worry about overcrowding them -- they look nice en masse.

4. Add another handful or so of pebbles around the bulbs just to hold them in place, not cover them.

5. Add just enough water to reach the base of the bulbs. Any more, and they'll rot. Your only responsibility will be to keep the water at this level.

6. Place in a cool, dark place, like a closet, for a week or two, or until roots begin to sprout.

7. Relocate to a sunny windowsill, preferably one with a southern or western exposure, until bloom time.

8. When you begin to see flowers, some say it's best to move the plant out of direct sunlight in order to extend bloom time.

You might consider repeating the process, staggering start times, to ensure a succession of blooms all winter.

Are you cutting edge? The Garden Media Group, a PR company that tracks such things, has released its 'What's In and What's Out in Gardening" list for 2007. Drumroll, please...

Do you have a planting dilemma? Upload a picture and get community input. Or, if you've created a horticultural masterpiece, show it off. Borrow ideas and share your own via snapshots of your gardens. Show us what worked and what didn't. View submissions and upload your shots in the Virtual Garden Club.