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Shade plants Archives

May 14, 2008

Plant of the week - Ligularia dentata 'Britt-Marie Crawford'

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Ligularia dentata 'Britt-Marie Crawford' is suitable for zones 4-9 (we're in 7).
Photo courtesy perennials.com

I was contemplating a few Heucheras at the nursery last weekend when I spotted a section of Ligularias staring up at me. I had discovered them awhile back and filed them away in the "must have" section of my brain. But as is often the case these days because there are too many things in my brain, it fell out.

The unusual shade-loving masterpiece of a plant has gorgeous glossy chocolate-purple foliage. Bigger than Heuchera, these leaves spread 3-4 feet and grow 2-3 feet tall. But that's not all. In late summer, flowers that resemble black-eyed Susans, without the black eyes, emerge from the center.

Deer aren't a concern for me on the western north shore of Nassau county, but if they were, they wouldn't touch it.

I bought three of them, and I'm putting them in front of a row of ostrich ferns, mixed in with some guacamole hostas.

March 26, 2008

Plants for shade

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Heuchera (Coral bells), left, and Helleborus add color to shady spots.


Kathy, a reader from Little Neck, wrote, asking for plant suggestions for her shady plot. And she mentioned that hostas "don't grow well" for her.

Well, Kathy, hostas are pretty well represented in shade gardens across the New York-metropolitan area. Since you didn't say what sort of difficulty you were experiencing with them, I'll just quickly go over a few common problems.

If you're noticing round holes in the leaves, slugs are likely the culprits. If you kiss your plants goodnight in the evening and wake up to find them missing from the garden, then you can blame deer or rabbits, though I don't think that's a likely problem in Little Neck. If you're noticing mottled foliage, yellow rings or dots on the leaves, that would indicate a virus, in which case it's best to dig them up and throw them out.

Other problems can be caused by chemicals, frost damage or insufficient shade.

No matter. Since you've decided to move on, I can tell you about some beautiful and hardy shade plants that thrive here, but first I want to tell you about one plant that will not grow well - grass. If your garden is very shady, don't even bother trying to plant a lawn. Sure, nurseries sell seed mixes labeled for shade. But I don't care what the bag says: They won't produce a lush lawn.

Having said that, you'll still need a ground cover. Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese spurge) is a reliable player. It fills in nicely yet isn't invasive, remains evergreen in this area and does a tremendous job anchoring the soil. Vinca minor (periwinkle) will serve a similar purpose and flower nicely in midspring.


Ajuga


It's important to note where your shade is coming from. If it's caused by deciduous trees like dogwoods, maples or oaks, then shade is a concern for only the part of the year when the tree has leaves. You can take advantage of the sun exposure before the tree leafs out and grow some sun-loving early-season perennials there. Try tulips and daffodils to brighten up the spot.

Before beginning any garden project, you should always test your soil's pH. The results will tell you which plants are suited to the site as well as guide you in amending the soil, if necessary. Test kits are widely available online and at local nurseries, and the Cornell Cooperative Extension will test your soil and make amendment recommendations for a nominal fee. (Call 516-228-0426 in Nassau; 631-727-7850 in Suffolk) for information.


Skimmia japonica is an under-used shrub that survives in shade and loves acid soil.

If your soil is on the acidic side, consider shrubs like Pieris (Andromeda), any of the Ilex species (hollies), and Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Skimmia japonica also loves shade and acid soil, and isn't used nearly as much as it should be. Kalmia latifolia (mountain laurel) would make a nice foundation planting. All of these are broadleaf evergreens.

For neutral soils, I love Hypericum 'Albury Purple' (St. Johnswort), which sports bright yellow flowers and red berries on a low-growing shrub with purple-tipped green leaves. It's indicated for sun to part shade, but I've had success with it in a mostly shady spot. I'm also fond of hydrangeas, which do very well in the shade.

Some varieties, such as the aptly named 'Endless Summer,' offer a full season of blooms. Abelia x grandiflora (glossy abelia) will serve you well, too. Boxwoods, both common and Japanese, will thrive, as will any of the yews and Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel).

If you're looking for annuals, you can't go wrong with impatiens or wax begonias. Coleus is a shade-loving foliage plant that's available in many different colors, and flowering tobacco (Nicotiana alata), which tolerates partial shade well, grows up to 4 feet tall and gives off a delicious jasmine scent.

As far as perennials go, you can't go wrong with Phlox divaricata (woodland phlox). Its blue, lavender or white blooms sit atop small green leaves in late spring, and it's a generous reseeder.

Heuchera (coral bells) blooms in summer with tall spikes of tube-like flowers rising above a mound of colorful foliage. Both perform well in partial shade, as do Echinacea Purpureas (purple coneflower), Aquilegias, Digitalis (foxglove), Astilbes, Campanulas, Lobelias and many lupines. Hellebores will flower in the winter, and Ajugas and ferns both have it made in the (deep) shade.

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June 2008

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