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      <title>Tom Swick: Travels | Sun-Sentinel Blogs</title>
      <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/</link>
      <description>A travel blog from the Sun-Sentinel&apos;s Tom Swick.</description>
      <language>en</language>
      <copyright>Copyright 2008</copyright>
      <lastBuildDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 09:40:33 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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      <docs>http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss</docs> 

            <item>
         <title>E-mails and e-mails</title>
         <description><![CDATA[One of the nice things about coming back from vacation is going through my e-mail. (Which is part of the reason I don't check it on the road.) 

Yesterday, amidst hundreds of press releases, I found a couple warm messages from readers and one note from a Texan requesting that I stay out of his state. (My column about improving national monuments - including the Alamo - was apparently picked up by a Texas paper.)

There were messages from friends in India, Arizona (Tom telling me that he had recently been honored as "<em>Un Huesped Ilustre</em>," or An Illustrious Guest, in Quito, Ecuador), California (two fellow travel editors hearing of layoffs and hoping I was OK), as well as this one from Margaret in Galicia, Spain:

<blockquote>I brought my 600 rebate check from USA, money borrowed from China, to stimulate the US economy...brought the cash with me, to the bank here in Spain where no one wants a dollar, exchanged my stimulus packet for 300 some odd euros, to stimulate the economy of Spain where a pack of ORBIT gum, imported, costs the same as a bottle of Rioja wine. Something is wrong with this whole picture!

I am at Casa do Patin, a mill turned home owned by a very interesting person of the old guard of Santiago. Adventures have been admiring the bar here, inoperative, where a movie was filmed last year, looking at her incredible garden and antiques, endless stories.

I have been here for 9 days, feeding the 6 and a half ducks who live in the pond which is fed by the river which flows through here and used to run under the house to move the mill. The wheels from the old mill are now table bottoms in the yard.

There is an oak tree so damn old and this morning while I was out having coffee, I saw for the first time - and I have been here many times - the date 1747 over the door. Am making a rubbing of it today on a piece of fabric; there is old lace and beautiful linen as she ran her own store of fine embroidery for years, and the remnants of that are everywhere.

Her goal is to turn this into a sort of club or association as it had one time been a rural bar meson type of thing, but the land where she has lived forever as did her parents and grandparents, has been expropriated by the government for extension of the university (although that is a long time away).

In the meantime the grass grows tall, the ducks hang out, and this phenomenal place sits and waits, while my friend Sofia continues to build her dreams, buy antiques, sew and store the most beautiful table linens, collect dishes from everywhere, hang them on the endless rock walls, while I move around in her world in a state of hallucination wishing I had more than the $600 given to me by the Dept. of Treasury or whoever it was so that I could help her out in her fight for preservation, at the same time recognizing that the future is here, although she refuses to see it.</blockquote>
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/emails_and_emails.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/emails_and_emails.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">correspondence</category>
        
        
         <pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 09:40:33 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Coon dog festival</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/dog.jpk"><img alt="dog.jpk" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/dog-thumb.jpk" width="300" height="240"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
The first dog we saw as we pulled into Saluda was a bloodhound. James Thurber once wrote that he supposed there were a lot of bloodhounds in heaven, and for people who like hounds, Saluda, NC, was a bit of heaven on Saturday.

The main street was lined with people staking out places for the parade and, along the railroad tracks, brightly-lit stands selling sausages, funnel cakes, cotton candy. I didn't see any hot dogs though a dachshund scampered up the street wearing two cushions in the shape of bread rolls on its sides and a red squiggle on its back to resemble ketchup. 

Up at the public library we bought a Coon Dog Festival T-shirt and then made our way down the main street. We passed a girl wearing a raccoon skin as a shawl and reenactors dressed in Confederate Army uniforms.

The coon dogs were out on the ball field, getting ready for their afternoon show. Owners - good ol boys - gruffly identified types for us: redbone, black and tan, English, bluetick, treeing walkers (which sounded to us like Korean walkers). One young man told us he had driven down from Johnstown, Pennsylvania, to show his redbone. 

Every once in a while a hound would howl, and the others would join in - a lovely sound on a Carolina morning.

The parade, which began at 11, contained more politicians than dogs. Instead of howling, they passed out fans and leaflets. They were followed by jalopies in a hillbilly theme, and the men driving them looked the part without, I think, appearing in costume. For people from the land of glitz, and the state famous for fabricated fun, it was heartening to see something unpretentious and true. 

Rain started falling shortly after the parade, so we headed back to the car to start the long drive home. Taking the detour around the main street, we passed a young woman holding a bloodhound puppy for sale. Those long ears, those folds of skin, that wrinkled brow - it took a lot of effort not to stop.

<em>Photo by Graham Donley</em>.
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/coon_dog_festival.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/coon_dog_festival.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">events</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">bloodhound</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">coon dog festival</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">james thurber</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">north carolina</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">saluda</category>
        
         <pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2008 09:22:20 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Another beautiful day in the mountains</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Wednesday began as every day could (as far as I'm concerned) with a two-yolk sunny-side up barnyard egg accompanied by a patty of trout sausage. I'd give you the name of the bed and breakfast if it were a bed and breakfast, but it's not - it's the home of friends who used to live in Ft. Lauderdale. 
 
Yesterday Bruce and Lyn took us across to border to Tennessee, where we white-water rafted down the Pigeon River with a guide who had the slightly disconcerting name of Wade. Happily, none of us had to.
 
Today, having had our fill of fish farms, ranches and rapids, we drove into the big city (see if you can guess the name). We saw the building that housed the psychiatric clinic where Zelda Fitzgerald died, and a newer facility where James Taylor spent some time (and, I presume, wrote "Fire and Rain.")
 
<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/travelmountains.gif"><img alt="travelmountains.gif" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/travelmountains-thumb.gif" width="300" height="400" align="right" hspace="5"/></a>We stopped into the Grove Park Inn -- the huge lobby with its walk-in fireplaces, the picture in the hall of F. Scott Fitzgerald in a Rooster tie - and ended up in Biltmore Village. Here our friends Graham and Donnette led us to <a href="http://www.Rezaz.com">Rezaz</a>, where we had a delicious lunch - lamb patties with polenta fries, Turkish pizza -- in a simple, elegant setting for about $11 a person. The waiter graciously took care of the celiacs, making sure that nothing on their plates contained or had come into contact with wheat. I had lobbied for 12 Bones, but barbecue is everywhere here and how often do you get to eat the excellent creations of a Persian chef in the mountains of Carolina? 
 
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/another_beautiful_day_in_the_m.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/another_beautiful_day_in_the_m.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">places</category>
        
        
         <pubDate>Thu, 03 Jul 2008 14:20:24 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Monday in the mountains: Where is Tom?</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Out at 8:30 with our friends to the <a href="www.sunbursttrout.com">Sunburst Trout Company </a>in Canton. "Processing fish by the grace of God," read the sign in front of the small building. Inside, workers fileted trout that had been deftly decapitated by a machine that produced a little stream of bloody water. 
 
After a tour of the raceways -- Sally Easley giving us handfuls of feed to throw in the water to create a frenzy -- we returned to the building for a taste of hot smoked trout and cold smoked trout (both delicious). We bought six filets for dinner, along with trout sausage, trout dip, and both varieties of smoked trout.
 
After lunch we headed to a ranch of Scottish Highland cattle to pick up some grass-fed beef that Lyn had ordered. The rancher refused payment, saying that he prefers people taste it first, and then if they like it, they can pay for the next batch.
 
Hania asked if we could see his cattle, and we drove up a dirt lane behind his pick-up to a little pasture where three woolly females grazed with a calf. The view, down the hill and across a valley to ribbons of mountain, was spectacular. 
 
<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/max.gif"><img alt="max.gif" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/max-thumb.gif" width="300" height="225" align="left" hspace="5"/></a>
We drove a little higher to the rancher's house, with another spectacular view and a bull named Maximillian in the front yard. He called to Max and he slowly came up to feed (the long porch was high enough he couldn't climb onto it).

<em>(Photo taken by Donnette Yeaton)</em>
 
"When I come back," the rancher said, "I want to be either a herd bull or a house cat. They both got it made." 
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/monday_in_the_mountains.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/07/monday_in_the_mountains.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">places</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">tourists</category>
        
        
         <pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2008 15:56:57 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Where in the world is Tom Swick?</title>
         <description>&quot;We&apos;re looking for Pineola,&quot; I said, giving the town an extra syllable.

&quot;That&apos;s Pine-ola,&quot; the man said.

&quot;No wonder I couldn&apos;t find it.&quot;

After he told me where it was, I asked how far we were from Boone. &quot;Did I pronounce that right?&quot; I asked. &quot;Now I may take offense at that,&quot; he said, almost smiling.

He&apos;d been here since 1973. &quot;This place is paradise,&quot; he said.

&quot;Where are you from originally?&quot; I asked. &quot;Charlotte.&quot; &quot;I meant the town, not the womb.&quot; (Actually, I didn&apos;t say that.)

He asked where I was from. &quot;Originally, New Jersey.&quot; &quot;That&apos;s your problem,&quot; he said. &quot;Half the people here are from New Jersey. They go to Florida first and then come up here.&quot;

&quot;Guess where I live now,&quot; I said. He gave me a perfect &quot;Lord-help-us&quot; look.

Give it your best shot: Where is Tom Swick?
 
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/where_in_the_world_is_tom_swic.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/where_in_the_world_is_tom_swic.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">autobiography</category>
        
        
         <pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 14:52:52 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>New York falls</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/falls.jpg"><img alt="falls.jpg" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/falls-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="200"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
If you're in New York City tomorrow, stop by the South Street Seaport around 10 a.m. to see the launch of The New York City Waterfalls. 

The art work, created by Olafur Eliasson, consists of four falls, all of which are on the East River and visible from the South Street Seaport. Perhaps the most dramatic is the one under the Brooklyn Bridge (artist's rendering left).

Sort of like Chicago's Cloud Gate sculpture, this is one of those art works that makes you wonder: How come nobody thought of this before?

The waterfalls will be up through Oct. 13.]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/new_york_falls.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/new_york_falls.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">cities</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">brooklyn bridge</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">olafur eliasson</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">south street seaport</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">the new york city waterfalls</category>
        
         <pubDate>Wed, 25 Jun 2008 11:27:47 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Where does a travel editor go for vacation?</title>
         <description>People often ask me this question. Well, I&apos;m off tomorrow on a 10-day trip with my wife. I won&apos;t be writing every day, but I will be sending in occasional reports. So forget about that morning TV guy and check in here to find out where in the world is Tom Swick.</description>
         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/where_does_a_travel_editor_go.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/where_does_a_travel_editor_go.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">travel editors</category>
        
        
         <pubDate>Wed, 25 Jun 2008 10:06:37 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Where to shop for travel sizes</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/bath.jpg"><img alt="bath.jpg" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/bath-thumb.jpg" width="280" height="280"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
My friend Ellen, a traveling mom, sends in this advice:

<blockquote>If you're planning to cram everything you own into a carry-on bag this summer, your first stop should be Bed Bath & Beyond's Sawgrass Mills Mall store. 

I found more than 200 small blue bins with just about any toiletry you'd need in a TSA-approved size: Dozens of soaps, shampoos, conditioners, pain & burn relievers; sunblocks and rain ponchos, grooming aids and deoderants, tiny Lysols and Febreezes and so much more. Even a visiting TSA worker was impressed.

For outward bound types seeking creature comforts, there are small rolls of Charmin in hard plastic dispensers. If you want to fill your own, there's a quart sized ziplock with 15 little empty jars and bottles. And if all this first aid has you overwhelmed by what could hamper your journey, reach into the last bin in the first aisle and grab the most important travel item of 'em all: A camera.</blockquote>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/where_to_shop_for_traveling_si.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/where_to_shop_for_traveling_si.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">shopping</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">bed bath &amp; beyond</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">sawgrass mills</category>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:39:23 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Saturday trips to Canada</title>
         <description><![CDATA[I don't know when WLRN started carrying <strong><a href="http://www.cbc.ca/vinylcafe/"target="new">The Vinyl Cafe </a></strong>. All I know is that a few months ago I became aware of a strange voice coming from my radio on Saturday afternoons.

My first thought was: Who's that - the poor man's Garrison Keillor? But very quickly the voice grew on me. It had an insistent quality, an unpolished earnestness, that distinguished it from the affected tones of Keillor. 

The man behind the voice, Stuart McLean, mixed stories and essays and music (no skits, thankfully), all with a strong Canadian identity. A couple weeks ago he was riding the train through the western provinces; last week he was on Prince Edward Island. And I was right there with him.

But nobody I know has ever mentioned the show. Has it not caught on here? Is Canada too exotic? In these days of exorbitant airfares and rising gas prices, a show like The Vinyl Cafe is one of the best means of virtual transportation.
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/saturday_trips_to_canada.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/saturday_trips_to_canada.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">radio</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">garrison keillor</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">prince edward island</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">stuart mclean</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">vinyl cafe</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">wlrn</category>
        
         <pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 10:09:11 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>A beautiful lunch</title>
         <description><![CDATA[I just got back from Giorgio's on 17th Street, which I'm rediscovering after a long absence that followed years of being a Friday regular.

The reasons for that absence had nothing to do with the place. And imagine my delight on finding it pretty much exactly as I left it - with the same great service (Serge has been voted Best Waiter in Broward County more than once) and delicious food (today's tomato basil bisque <em>should</em> be voted the best in Broward County). 

Giorgio's is small and bustling and has that friendly, neighborhood feel that is not that easy to come by here. I sat there, waiting for my food and watching the staff rushing about but also taking time to talk and laugh - with customers and each other. Everyone seemed to be having a good time.

The only negative note were the two men at the table next to me who at one point both talked on their cell phones. But they did it in a way that I had never seen before: one in English and one in Spanish.    ]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/a_beautiful_lunch.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/a_beautiful_lunch.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">restaurants</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">17th street</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">giorgio&apos;s</category>
        
         <pubDate>Mon, 23 Jun 2008 13:52:25 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Places to go, things to do</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/gil.jpg"><img alt="gil.jpg" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/gil-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="204"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
Friday I got so wrapped up in La Fete de la Musique that I left out quite a few other things.

First of all, today is World Refugee Day, a day to consider the 40 million refugees worldwide. This evening at 8, <a href="http://www.booksandbooks.com/NASApp/store/IndexJsp"target="new">Books & Books </a>in Coral Gables is hosting a discussion of the international refugee situation with Irwin Stotzky of the University of Miami, Denise Wallace of St. Thomas University, and the staff of the International Rescue Committee. 

<a href="http://www.sweetmangotours.com/"target="new">Sweet Mango Tours </a>is offering a trip to northern Thailand December 20, 2008 - January 4, 2009. Price is $2,750 (not including air) and the trip involves a homestay in a rural rice-farming village. Linda Wheatley, who leads the tours, wrote: "I did this with my two kids when they were 10 and 14 - we trekked through northern jungles and spent Christmas in a host village. Then we celebrated New Year's with my friends in Northeast Thailand - lighting fire-crackers, sweating in the tropical heat and wandering an enormous city fair. I'm hoping to engage other American families in trying a different kind of holiday season - for those looking to give of their hearts and receive in kind."

Some big names are coming to Miami: <a href="http://www.rhythmfoundation.com/"target="new">The Rhythm Foundation </a>is bringing the great Brazilian singer, songwriter and, more recently, cultural minister <strong>Gilberto Gil </strong>to The Fillmore Miami Beach at the Jackie Gleason Theater Saturday, July 5.

Three days later (July 8), <strong>Salman Rushdie </strong>will speak at Temple Judea in Coral Gables (the crowds he attracts are too big to fit in Books & Books).

If you're traveling, the wonderful klezmer duo of <a href="http://www.klezmerduo.com/"><strong>Deborah Strauss </strong>and <strong>Jeff Warschauer</strong></a> will be performing and teaching at the <strong><a href="http://www.jewishfestival.pl/index.php?lang=e"target="new">Jewish Culture Festival</a></strong> in Krakow, Poland, June 28-July 6. I've been to the festival twice, and it is a fascinating event.

And - now for a little self-advertisement - if you're in Australia next month I'll be speaking, and teaching, at the <a href="http://www.mftw.com.au/"target="new"><strong>Melbourne Festival of Travel Writing</strong> </a>July 19-20.


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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/places_to_go_things_to_do_11.html</link>
         <guid>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/places_to_go_things_to_do_11.html</guid>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">events</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">books and books</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">deborah strauss</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">fillmore miami beach</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">gilberto gil</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">jeff warschauer</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">jewish culture festival</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">krakow</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">linda wheatley</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">melbourne festival of travel writing</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">salman rushdie</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">sweet mango tours</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">temple judea</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">the rhythm foundation</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">world refugee day</category>
        
         <pubDate>Mon, 23 Jun 2008 09:47:53 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Letter from Britain</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Our tennis writer Charles Bricker sent this dispatch just before the start of Wimbledon:

<blockquote>The British rail system is onto something, but it’s not cost-cutting.

The cost of traveling around this island is beyond an arm and a leg. We’re into other body parts, including your stomach if you’re nervy enough to buy anything in the café car.

However. . .(pause for effect) . . . there is internet on many of the National Railway cars. You’re thinking, “If Amtrak had this, and of course didn’t arrive more than two hours late for every trip, I might consider riding the rails more often in the U.S.”

I’m going to have to admit to my biggest mistake on this two-month European holiday/work odyssey. When I ordered my Brit Rail pass from one of those online companies in the U.S., I sloppily ordered the four-day “consecutive” pass rather than the four-days-in-a-month pass. Or maybe they made the mistake. I’m not sure. I’ll have a talk with them when I get back.

In the meantime, I found out rather quickly on my initial journey, from Euston Station London to Windermere, that this pass ($369, all in first class), could only be used on four consecutive days, beginning with my first trip. Don’t you make the same mistake.

I dealt with it when I got to Windermere, and it didn’t turn out too badly, though it could have. It’s only recently that the British rail people corrected the glitch in their ticket machines, which sold you the most expensive ticket possible for your journey.

If you still don’t trust the reprogrammed machines, and I don’t, go directly to a ticket agent at the station and tell him, in distinct terms, “Hi, I’d like the cheapest possible ticket(s) from here to there.”

So I purchased three trips – Windermere to Glasgow; Glasgow to Nottingham; and Nottingham to London.

It was about $20 from Windermere to Glasgow; $90 from Glasgow to Nottingham; and another $90 from Nottingham to London. It would have been twice as much if you went to a ticket machine and had no idea how to cheapen the ticket.

And so I’ve had my holiday time, from the Lake District to Glasgow and Nottingham and I arrived in London after a brisk, two-hour ride from Robin Hood country to St.Pancras station, just short of 9 a.m.

It was an easy ride on the Underground from St. Pancras to Gloucester Road, two blocks from my hotel. It’s good to settle in, unpack the bags, find things I thought I’d lost along the way and hang up some clothes that had been gathering wrinkles for weeks.

To regress to Glasgow, this was my third trip there and it hasn’t changed much, which is good. There’s wonderful contrast in this vibrant, very alive city. There’s old Glasgow and new Glasgow. There is striking contemporary architecture along the main streets, adjacent to 17th and 18th Century buildings. It’s still less expensive than England, right down to the free Kelvingrove Art Museum, which had an astonishingly fine display of celebrity photographs by the noted Scot Harry Benson.

This is a hard-drinking city and it wasn’t unusual to drop into a bar/restaurant near the rail station about 4 p.m. and find it jammed with a lot of very heavy and unhealthy looking people throwing down pints.

It’s gotten so bad the government is taking measures to curtail rampant drinking. Somehow, I find that effort laughable.

I spent most of one day in Glasgow on Byers Road, which had been shut off to vehicle traffic for Scotland’s version of Mardi Gras. No floats and no one throwing beads. But there were bands everywhere and tens of thousands having a great time.

It’s now Saturday at Wimbledon, two days before the start of the tournament, and it’s the first time I’ve encountered real, persistent rain since I arrived in the UK on June 9. I recall telling myself, “This great weather can’t go on. Wait till I get to Wimbledon.” Sure enough.

The pound is lingering at $1.97 and it’s brutal, but I just have to keep telling myself, “I’m not buying gas. . .I’m not buying gas.”

Cheers.</blockquote>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/letter_from_britain.html</link>
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                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">countries</category>
        
        
         <pubDate>Mon, 23 Jun 2008 09:12:34 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>A place to go, something to think about</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/fete.jpg"><img alt="fete.jpg" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/fete-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="179"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
La Fete de la Musique began in France in 1982 as a way to recognize musicians and entertain the public during the summer solstice. The thinking, clearly, was that maypoles just didn't cut it anymore.

I was in Paris once for the event, which was like nothing I had ever seen. You wandered the neighborhoods, stumbling upon solitary folk singers, classical trios, R&B bands, African drummers, French <em>chanteurs</em>. Music seemed to emanate from every street, and carried on long into the night. It was as if the city had been turned into an endless series of open-air studios, with the public passing freely from one to the other.

The festival was so popular it has now spread around the world. Tomorrow, from 6-11, the <a href="http://www.afmiami.org"target="new">Alliance Francaise </a>in Miami will hold its own Fete de la Musique at its headquarters on Calle Ocho. And, as in Paris, there is no charge.

It's a start. But wouldn't a Fete de la Musique be great for the city of Miami? Imagine starting at the Arsht Center (where else?), strolling up Biscayne Boulevard serenaded by sounds, and then heading into the Design District, where the normally quiet streets would be animated by singers, bands, people, life. 

Just a thought.  
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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/places_to_go_things_to_do_10.html</link>
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                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">alliance francaise</category>
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                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">biscayne boulevard</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">design district</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">fete de la musique</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">miami</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">paris</category>
        
         <pubDate>Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:58:57 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Eating in the Baltics</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/borscht.jpg"><img alt="borscht.jpg" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/borscht-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="198"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
I wrote a column last Sunday on international street food - gyros, bratwurst, crepes, tacos - (available at <a href="http://www.sun-sentinel.com/travel ">www.sun-sentinel.com/travel </a>- the column, that is, not the food). Monday I got a message from a woman in Lake Worth kindly alerting me to an item I had missed: falafel.

I've had some great falafel around the world, which was part of the reason I left it out: Like the empanada, it is so common it's hard to pick one country as its home. 

I e-mailed this to the woman in Lake Worth and soon got a message telling me she was traveling in Lithuania. I messaged her back, telling her to have a bowl of <em>saltibarsciai</em> for me. 

<em>Saltibarsciai</em>, or cold borscht, is not a street food, but it's one of the world's great soups. It's as important to the Baltics as gazpacho is to Spain. The Lithuanians, the Poles (who call it "Lithuanian borscht"), the Russians, the Latvians all, come summertime, turn beets into chilled bliss, mixing the juice with kefir, sour cream, buttermilk (depending on the region) and adding to the chopped beets (also depending on the region), pickles, radishes, spring onions, a hard-boiled egg, meat (sometimes), shrimp (rarely), but, always, always, lots of dill.

I made a big bowl a number of years ago and took it to a party, where it sat suspect and mostly untasted. People were alarmed by its flamingo pink surface, the result not, as they suggested, of artificial coloring, but of the simple mixing of beet juice and buttermilk. 

Too bad for them. It's not often you find a food that's delicious, refreshing, filling, and healthy. I may make a batch this weekend - and eat it during the summer solstice.

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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/eating_in_the_baltics.html</link>
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                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">food</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">bratwurst</category>
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                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">lithuania</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">lithuanian borscht</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">poles</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">russians</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">saltibarsciai</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">summer solstice</category>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:29:58 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>The Spies of Warsaw in Coral Gables</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/furst.jpg"><img alt="furst.jpg" src="http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/furst-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="225"align="left"hspace="5"/></a>
Last night at <strong><a href="http://www.booksandbooks.com/NASApp/store/IndexJsp">Books & Books</a></strong>, Alan Furst, the popular novelist of Second World War intrigue, read from his new novel, <em>The Spies of Warsaw</em>.

I had read it quickly over the weekend, carried along by the story of a French military attache working in his country's embassy in Poland in 1937. What attracted me to the story was not just the setting - Warsaw, where I lived in the late 70s and early 80s - but the subject. In 1979, during an interview about my visa, I was offered an extension if I became an informer. I declined, and left the country three days later.

About 60 people gathered in the bookstore last night to hear Furst speak. He prefaced his reading by saying that, of all his novels, this was the one with the most resonance to today. I was surprised at first, as the book's pre-war atmosphere kept taking me back to the Cold War. 

But he described this as his "9/10 book." And he explained that the military attache gathers vital information about an impending German attack on France which none of his superiors take very seriously. Hard evidence is presented and the people in power opt to ignore it. 

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         <link>http://blogs.trb.com/travel/columnists/swick/blog/2008/06/the_spies_of_warsaw_in_coral_g.html</link>
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                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">books</category>
        
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">alan furst</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">books and books</category>
                  <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">the spies of warsaw</category>
        
         <pubDate>Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:46:48 -0500</pubDate>
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